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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.